Lao Papaya Salad | Thum Mak Hoong ຕຳໝາກຫຸ່ງ

Nov 25

What is Lao papaya salad thum mak hoong?

I consider Lao papaya salad thum mak hoong as an essential dish on all Lao food tables. The perfect bite is fresh sticky rice used to grab some papaya salad and bing gai grilled chicken. Thum mak hoong is a delicious green papaya salad that usually is funky, spicy, and aggressive in flavor. The pool of papaya salad juice is dark due to the crab paste, shrimp paste, and padaek. If you are lucky, there will be a Lao plum and salted whole crab pieces.

Why is Lao papaya salad thum mak hoong important in Laos?

If you ask any Lao family of food memories, they will always mention Lao papaya salad thum mak hoong. It is a fundamental piece of Lao food and helps show the flavor profiles. Papaya salad originated in Laos and other variations spread across Southeast Asia. It is lesser known in the United States because there was a huge expansion of other Southeast Asian foods. Thum mak hoong is now taking its place and shining a bright light on Lao food and the community.

Ingredients You'll Need

kosher salt: helps smash the peppers and garlic
Garlic: only use a little because the flavor is strong.
fresh bird eye chili: prefer the red chilies as they are spicier (it's often referred to as thai chili)
dried bird eye chili: the use of different variations of the peppers helps add layers to the spice and flavor
shrimp paste: brings out the umami
black crab paste: adds the signature dark color to Lao papaya salad
Luang Prabang padaek: unfiltered fish sauce from Luang Prabang; an alternative is Pantai fish sauce that can be found at Southeast Asian markets
fish sauce: prefer the three crabs or squid brand
tamarind paste: adds the sour taste and slightly thickens the sauce
granulated sugar: adds sweetness to it; alternative can be palm sugar
salted whole crab sauce: adds the layer of sweet crab flavors to the sauce
cherry tomatoes: it has the most amount of natural umami
lime juice: adds the sour flavors and also toss in the rind
green papaya: make sure its green so you have that crunchy texture
Lao plum: adds the natural mouth watering sour and a little bitter flavors
msg: its not Lao papaya salad without msg
pork rinds, vermicelli noodles, Vietnamese ham, Lao soured pork, snake beans, Asian meatballs: these are common pairings with the papaya salad

What type of papaya should you use?

It is crucial you use only unripe green papaya because thats where you get that extra crunch. Even a little ripening of the papaya will make it mushy and not good. The papaya you select should always be green and a press agains the surface of the papaya should be firm. Below is an example of a large amount of unripe papaya.

How to chop the green papaya shreds

As you can see in the photo above, I am well-versed in preparing papaya salad, having made hundreds of batches for my pop-ups. The easiest way to cut papaya is with a handheld shredder or vegetable peeler, which provides a uniform thin shreds texture. I believe texture is crucial for this dish, so I always prefer shredding the papaya by hand. In Lao, the word for this process is "fuk" (careful who you say it around, lol). When you "fuk" a papaya, it means you are lightly making indentations with a knife and then carefully shredding it with the sharp knife. This method results in different lengths and textures, enhancing the dish.

Using a Lao Mortar and Pestle

The traditional way of making thum mak hoong is using a kohk and sahk, the Lao mortar and pestle. These mortars are unique because they have a thick base and tall, thin sides. The pestle is made of wood to prevent the mortar from cracking when smashing the papaya salad. Most are made of terracotta clay and are usually brown or dark gray, with the dark gray mortars being the sturdiest. If you don't have this Lao kitchen tool, you can use a ziplock bag to mix and shake all the ingredients together. However, this alternative method doesn't infuse the flavors as well as smashing them into the papaya.

What is fermented fish sauce?

One of the fundamental ingredients in Lao cuisine is padaek, an unfiltered fermented fish sauce that is dark brown and pungent. It is used extensively in the sauce for papaya salad, giving it that extra funky flavor. Typically, it is homemade with freshwater fish or sourced from a local Lao auntie in the neighborhood. If you can't access the homemade version, a common brand I recommend is Pantai. Padaek on its own may taste very strong, but trust me, when you add it to papaya salad, it enhances all the flavors in a delightful way.

What makes the Lao papaya salad sauce different?

The Lao papaya salad sauce is very different from its other sibling salads. The sauce is darker, more pungent, and very spicy. The ingredients that make it different are: black crab paste, shrimp paste, padaek unfiltered fish sauce, salted whole crab, and Lao plum. There are some Lao papaya salad sauce available on the market if you live near a Southeast Asian market. If you are not lucky to live near a store that has it available, I suggest making your own sauce in a large amount.

Adjusting Lao Papaya Salad sauce to your taste

I don’t think there is one amazing recipe for Lao papaya salad because everyone’s taste buds are different. When you go to Lao, the cooks that make the salad will ask you if you want it more spicy, sweet, sour, or pungent. The best Lao papaya salad is up to you.

Other variations of Lao papaya salad is adding round eggplants, shredded carrots, vermicelli noodles, Lao meatballs, and long beans. Vegan and plant-based Lao papaya salad is possible. I use a fermented soy that tastes very close to fish sauce.

Is it safe to have Lao papaya salad sauce during pregnancy?

This is a common wive’s tale I heard growing up because Lao papaya salad is extra spicy. I am not a doctor so I suggest asking your doctor! The one hesitation is having unpasteurized padaek unfiltered fish sauce in your papaya salad because of how its prepared. If you love padaek and can’t live without it, I suggest boiling the padaek and that should kill any microorganism in the fermentation process.

Tips & Tricks in making the best Lao papaya salad thum mak hoong

It is the details that will make your Lao papaya salad thum mak hoong really delicious and also where you source your ingredients.

the best papaya is one that is hand cut so you will have strands of all textures
add the shredded papaya in an ice bath to give it that extra crunch
homemade padaek is always the best so make surer you ask the Lao mom or Lao auntie around town

The difference between Lao and Thai papaya salad

Thailand also has its own variation of papaya salad, called som tam (som tum). Compared to Lao papaya salad, the Thai version is milder, less pungent, and lighter in flavor. Think of it as a lighter counterpart to the heavy and flavor-packed thum mak hoong, which is immediately recognizable by its dark sauce. Visually, the Lao version is darker in color, while the Thai one is lighter. The Lao version uses padaek (unfiltered fish sauce) as its base, with black crab paste added for an extra dark color. Comment below on other differences you notice.Watch on Youtube.

What other ingredients can go into papaya salad?

Papaya salad can be customized to your taste. There is even a version called "thum mua" that includes a wide variety of ingredients. For toppings, some people like to add crushed peanuts for a nutty flavor and dried shrimp for extra umami and texture. A common variation of thum includes shredded papaya mixed with green beans. If you're curious about other types of salads in Lao food, check out the salads made with cucumber and green mango.

The Health Benefits of Papaya Salad

Whichever variations of green papaya salad you enjoy, it will come with lots of nutrition. The salad is a healthy dish with high nutritional value, including fiber, calcium, potassium, and vitamin C. The antioxidants in papaya can help lower cholesterol, and the enzyme papain aids in breaking down carbohydrates and proteins, which is why papaya skin is often used to marinate and tenderize steak. Additionally, when shredded papaya is mixed with padaek (unfiltered fish sauce) in a clay mortar, it adds healthy probiotics that benefit the digestive and immune systems. However, be cautious of the high sodium content in papaya salad and avoid drinking the juice at the end, even though it tastes good.

Is it thum, tum, or tam?

Translating Laotian cuisine and Lao words into English can be challenging, as you've likely seen with the inconsistent spelling of "larb," which I prefer to spell "laab." For papaya salad, some spell it "tum mak hoong," but I prefer "thum mak hoong." Regardless of how you spell it, it should always be dark and funky!